A note on food
In memory of Thermopylae, Salamis, Plataea; & Vimy Ridge
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“An army moves on its stomach” (I wrote, some years ago), but it is hard to find anywhere in history an example of an army that cared much for the gourmand. Actually, I misstate. It is hard to find examples of officers who cared for what the troops were eating — so long as it was nutritious and sufficient and did not contribute to mutiny. For the most part military food has been indistinguishable from prison food, and presented in the same spirit.
This is partly understandable. War is not a picnic. I used to find it difficult to cook in the proximity of small, squalling children; I suppose the rattle of gunfire, the explosion of incendiary bombs, and the whistle of incoming mortars might be equally distracting to the higher sort of culinary exercise.
But the circumstances of a field kitchen are not wholly grim. Dried herbs and spices are very light to carry, and wherever one happens to be on campaign, there are the fruits of that countryside. Moreover, as most old soldiers will recall, and the readers of their diaries and memoirs in their absence, most days are not that exciting. There is plenty of time to think about food. There are long periods of boredom and waiting with nothing to look at but the sky; interspersed with short periods of pant-shitting terror.
Suppose, for a moment, a bit of imagination on the part of quartermasters and cooks, and a semi-intelligent rationing authority — a war might be conducted with a bit of dash. There could be rivalry between regimental kitchens, or between the galleys in His Majesty’s fleet. Food could be made a powerful inducement in the recruitment drives.
There are some little sparks like this, in history. In the Crimean War, Florence Nightingale, that extraordinary lantern-bearing angel, procured the voluntary help of Alexis Soyer, the leading London hotel chef of the day, to advise her on the organization of field hospital kitchens. These quickly became the place to eat — almost worth getting wounded. M. Soyer applied his very broad mind to analyzing the limitations of field cookery, then turning each limitation into a strength. (See his: Culinary Campaign in the Crimea, 1857.)
Morale is not a small thing in the conduct of war. A hot meal delivered in defiance of logistics in the cold muddy wet of the hideous trenches, comes to remind us of victory, in the very face of the enemy.
Instead, our military food traditions seem to descend from the Scots — those bold, hardy warriors advancing through Northumbria in the XIVth century, without baggage carts. In Froissart’s Chronicle we read of their diet: under-done meat from rustled local cattle, thin oatmeal cakes, and river water.
Perhaps that’s the way it has got to be. Certainly it is the way it was, from what veterans have told me (including my papa, and his papa).
So in remembering the men, and women, who served, we might delay breakfast today until past eleven. Perhaps then the sludge should be eaten from a tin bowl, with a slab of stale bread (no butter): not from any desire to fast, but to help us to remember them; and those for whom such a meal was their last, this side of paradise.