In an iron pan, in butter, lightly braise beefsteak shavings (from raw, of course). Pour over a green peppercorn sauce — made from beef stock with wine & shallots, thickened with cream. Toss in some sliced mushroom, & garden peas, then simmer patiently. On a deep plate of frites (“freedom fries”) spread a layer of cheddar cheese curds. Then pour the molten content of the pan over top of this. We have decided to name our collation of the evening, “Poutine High Doganate.”

The wine for this, both for sauce & table, is a masculine, plummy, Alentejano from Portugal. It is called “Lóios,” in honour of the monks who once dominated the local economy; & should be drunk down at one sitting, for it gets a little inky once the cork is out. Very cheap at the Ontario Licker Control Board, currently, or would be if they took off all the taxes.

(Give us a choice between domination by bibulous monks, or Kafkaesque provincial control boards, & we’ll take the monks, thank you.)